In Moldova, Feteasca Neagră wines remain relatively underexplored. Hardly anyone can say with certainty what their full potential for development and ageing is. The only way to understand how these wines evolve is to observe them year after year. We are at the very beginning of this fascinating journey. At present, the Moldovan market offers quite a large number of varietal wines made from Feteasca Neagră grapes. Many consumers are familiar with young and relatively young examples, while only a few have experience with more mature wines (at least five years old).
Having gathered around a dozen bottles of Feteasca Neagră from different wineries, I decided to conduct a small tasting to see how this variety expresses itself in Moldova. Naturally, older wines were of the greatest interest to me, while younger ones were included for comparison. After the tasting notes, I will venture a few conclusions.
Feteasca Neagră 2019 (Experimental winemaking, NOVW)
The grapes were grown on a demonstration plot of the National Office of Vine and Wine (NOVW) in Purcari and processed under microvinification conditions at the Department of Oenology of the Technical University of Moldova. The wine was aged on oak staves for four months.
A deep ruby colour, with a lighter ruby rim and elegant legs on the glass. The first nose reveals чистый аромат black cherry. After swirling, aromas of cherry, black pepper, nutmeg, blackcurrant, blackberry, and a hint of dairy cream emerge. After about 30 minutes, a note of toasted wood appears. Later, delicate nuances of vanilla, dark chocolate, and black mulberry develop, while the berry aromas become sweeter.
Silky texture, gentle and smooth palate with a note of black cherry. The finish shows cherry pit and dark chocolate. Alcohol: 13.4%. A very harmonious wine — one I would even call a benchmark for Feteasca Neagră.
Vintage 2018
Feteasca Neagră 2018 (Experimental winemaking, NOVW)
From the same plot as the previous wine but from an earlier vintage, without oak ageing.
Ruby colour with a light ruby rim. The first nose is fruity. Aromas include plum in a savoury dish, fresh blackcurrant with stems, dried black cherry, and black pepper. After 30 minutes, ripe raspberry and blackberry appear, lightly spiced with cinnamon, followed later by dried currant leaf.
Silky texture. The acidity feels higher than in the previous sample. Flavours of cherry, dried cherry, and dried plum. The finish shows a slight bitterness of dried black cherry. Alcohol: 13.8%.
Motive Feteasca Neagră 2018 IGP Valul lui Traian (Vinaria din Vale)
Aged in French oak barriques, bottled in March 2020.
Deep ruby colour with a clean ruby rim. The nose opens with plum. The bouquet reveals dried black cherry, dried plum, nutmeg, Brazil nut, white pepper, blackberry nuances, and bay leaf. Later, cherry in its own juice appears.
Silky, soft, and elegant. Flavours of dried cherry, with a chocolate note on the finish. Alcohol: 13.5%.
Apriori Feteasca Neagră 2018 (Imperial-Vin / Apriori Wine)
Bottled in March 2019.
Ruby colour with pronounced legs. Aromas dominated by black berries—aronia, sloe, dried cherry, and confiture. After an hour, a light raspberry note emerges.
On the palate, a slight fruity sweetness suggests residual sugar. Finish: bitter black cherry. Alcohol: 13.5%.
Vintage 2017
Feteasca Neagră 2017 (Domeniile Pripa)
Aged in Moldovan oak barrels. Bottled in April 2019.
Deep ruby colour. The first nose shows a fleeting pickled note and spices. The bouquet includes nutmeg, mixed peppers, dried cherry and plum, chocolate nuances, and fresh wood.
Soft with mature tannins, slight pleasant astringency. Fuller-bodied than previous wines (alcohol 14.6%). Flavours of dried cherry with a hint of sweetness. The finish transitions from coffee to chocolate over a cherry background, ending with bitter black cherry.
A wine with strong personality and, in my opinion, further ageing potential.
98 Hectares Feteasca Neagră 2017 IGP Valul lui Traian (Vinuri de Comrat)
Aged 3–6 months in barrels. Bottled August 2018.
Ruby colour with elegant legs. Initially closed on the nose—needs air.
Bouquet: dried plum, black cherry, aronia, nutmeg, and fruity sweetness. Soft but slightly astringent. Flavours and finish dominated by dried cherry with a hint of vanilla. Alcohol: 13%.
Individo Feteasca Neagră 2017 (Chateau Vartely)
Bottled July 2018.
Ruby colour with dense legs. The first nose shows black fruits.
Aromas: dried plum, black cherry, nutmeg, cinnamon. Later: sweet black fruits, coffee, vanilla, black pepper, hawthorn berries. Likely some oak contact, although not stated on the label.
Silky texture. Flavour: bitter black cherry. Alcohol: 14%.
Vintage 2016
Chateau Denovi Feteasca Neagră 2016 (Mold-Nord)
Bottled August 2017.
Ruby colour with a slight tawny rim. The first nose shows Brettanomyces (“barnyard”).
Earthy notes dominate, unfortunately masking fruit. A small presence of Brett can add complexity, but here it is excessive. Some may still appreciate this style.
On the palate: slight sweetness, though the wine is dry. Alcohol: 13%.
Granovia Feteasca Neagră 2016 (Granovia Wines)
Bottled July 2018.
Deep ruby colour with very pronounced legs.
Bouquet: nutmeg, cracked cherry pit, dried plum, cherry, white pepper. Silky texture with notable acidity. Flavours of dried black cherry and slight astringency, with a coffee finish.
Tannins slightly green—barrel ageing could have refined them further. Overall, a pleasant wine. Alcohol: 13%.
Vintage 2014
Feteasca Neagră 2014 (Vinaria din Vale)
Aged six months in French oak.
Ruby colour with a slightly tawny rim. First nose: spices.
Bouquet: nutmeg, cinnamon, dried black cherry, cherry, prune, black pepper. Silky, soft, with noticeable acidity and slight astringency. Flavour: black cherry. Finish: dried plum.
A good wine at a good price. Alcohol: 13.5%.
Individo Feteasca Neagră 2014 (Chateau Vartely)
Bottled July 2015.
Ruby colour, less intense than the 2017 version, with slight brick оттенок at the rim.
Aromas: dried plum, black cherry, blackberry, nutmeg, black pepper. After a few hours, a jam-like note appears.
Silky texture. Flavours of dried cherry with slight astringency. Finish: bitter cherry. Alcohol: 14%.
Likely some oak influence, though not stated.
Minis Terrios Feteasca Neagră 2014 (Familia Mea)
Barrel-aged, bottled June 2016.
Ruby colour with expected brick оттенок. First nose briefly shows Brett.
Then dried plum, dried cherry, and cinnamon emerge. Astringent palate with wild bitter black cherry. Finish: dark chocolate.
Despite ageing, tannins are not fully mature. With more time, it might have become rounder.
Conclusions
Although I have tasted relatively few Romanian Fetească Neagră wines, I noticed clear stylistic differences compared to Moldovan ones. Romanian examples often feature dried plum and blackcurrant (in various forms – ripe, overripe, or jam), along with light cinnamon notes.
Moldovan Feteasca Neagră wines more frequently show aromas of bitter black cherry and spices – cinnamon, black or white pepper, and nutmeg – characteristic of the variety itself. Cherry and dried plum are also common, complemented by variations of black berries. Blackcurrant aromas are relatively rare.
Where oak ageing is present, typical notes of coffee, vanilla, and chocolate appear. These are already observable in our wines, though additional nuances may develop with longer ageing – something yet to be fully explored.
The pronounced glycerol “legs” observed in the glass indicate good body. These wines are generally medium to medium-plus in body.
One of the key advantages of Feteasca Neagră is that it can be expressive even without oak ageing. In fact, excessive use of oak alternatives (such as chips) may distort it. The tannins ripen well in Moldova, often better than in Cabernet Sauvignon, for example. Even without oak, these wines are far from simple – they naturally develop aromatic complexity often associated with barrel ageing.
This raises the question: do they need long cellaring? One might argue – why, if the wine reaches balance relatively quickly? Today’s trend favours minimal oak influence and maximum fruit expression, and Feteasca Neagră fits perfectly into this direction.
International experts increasingly suggest that Feteasca Neagră can and should become one of the calling cards of Moldovan winemaking. It also performs well in blends.
Related articles:
The Feteasca Neagră Grape Variety in Moldova
