Thanks to Ruxanda Lipkan, belonging to the family business of Fautor Company, two Spanish varieties appeared in Moldova – white Albariño and red Tempranillo. About the wine from the first variety, I wrote, and now it’s time for the second.
When I learned about these planted varieties, about the red I had doubts – would it have enough Moldovan sun, compared to Spanish? Later I learned that Tempranillo even happens to be hot in her homeland in Spain. It does not benefit its acidity, it is very reduced, and the wine in taste becomes flat.
In 2012, Fautor planted 3 hectares of Tempranillo as an experiment, near Romanovka, Leova district, Region Valul-lui-Traian (these vineyards – in the photo). And how did he show himself to us?
The vineyard is well rooted, has not shown sensitivity to some diseases,” says director of production Tatyana Kroitoru. – It can not be said that the climate or the soil did not suit him. There are no problems with terroir. But it does not resemble any of the varieties known to us. He has very beautiful big elongated bunches, berries with thick skin, in which a lot of coloring substances have been accumulated. Therefore, there are no questions about the sufficiency of color, it is very intense.
Tempranillo behaves very interesting. In 2016, we were forced to remove 40% of the future harvest to limit the load on the bush. But in 2017, the vines seemed to understand how much to give the grapes, because nothing had to be adjusted. The grapes are harvested in the second half of October, it is well ripe.
During the production of wine, we noticed that the wine materials of this variety need micro-oxidation (dosed access of oxygen). And it is better to store it not in cisterns, but in old oak barrels, because there, too, through the pores of the wood occurs micro-oxidation. Part of the wine material we stand in barrels – the maturation is exactly for him. 12 months in a barrel – no problems, because the wine is strong and powerful. It likes a barrel.
We are very responsible for our Spanish varieties, because Albarino and Tempranillo in Moldova is our concept and project. We are responsible for those who have tamed. If these varieties in our vineyards are given some negative shades, then they have no opportunity to rehabilitate themselves, because they in Moldova, unlike other varieties, grow only in one place. Albarino and Tempranillo show themselves very interesting and diverse, so they deserve to be experimented with”.
In just 2017, Tempranillo wine, 2015 from Fautor, won medals at the Black Sea Region contests in Moldova (gold), Mundus Vini in Germany (gold), Decanter World Wine Awards in the UK (bronze), Portugal wine trophy in Portugal (silver).
Tempranillo, 2015 debuted a year ago, on the winter “Vernissage of Wines”, and for me it was one of the brightest tasting experiences. About eight months ago a bottle appeared in my wine collection, but something told me: “Let it lie stay longer, it’s still young.”
If we talk about the nature of the wine, then this is – a true Spaniard, passionate, strong. The label of the wine conveys its essence well. Tempranillo – with the character of a pacified bull.
The alcohol content – 13.5% in dry wine indicates that the grapes were ripe, gained high sugar content.
The color of wine – dark garnet, with ruby rim around the edge of the glass. The wine color is so dense that even raised to light it is not transparent, there is only a ruby reflection in the depth of the glass.
I leave the wine poured into a glass for a few minutes to breathe. He has a very interesting, unusual flavor. He is intriguing and you want to study it. The first sensation, in the fragrance, it was possible to determine the skin tone, tobacco leaf, red bitter pepper, fallen overripe wild plums, blackthorn. At the second approach (minutes through ten) the bright truffle, shades of a dried ham, a peel of a pomegranate and a set of spices. Left in the glass a couple of sips another 15 minutes surprised with the aroma of dried wild raspberries, and the first, not fruit aromas are gone.
The taste is very dry, astringent, but not tart. Although it is said that the Tempranillo variety is not characterized by a high level of acidity, apparently, on the territory of Moldova it had enough acidity. In taste there are well pronounced tobacco notes and blackthorn. Tannins of wine I would call moderately arrogant, match the character of the Spanish bull, which is depicted on the label. The aftertaste is long, about 18 seconds.
Because over time the wine is changed, if you open it, for example, after six months, it can show itself on the other side. As gastronomic pair to Tempranillo, 2015 uniquely arise veal dishes.
For me, this wine is associated with passionate Spanish dance, running of bulls through the streets of Spanish cities during the Feast of Saint-Fermin, a brave bullfighter facing a bull with a piece of red cloth.
