For more than 20 years wine – makers’ preoccupation of biodynamic has been continuing all around the world. Moldova is also one of the participants of this process. Nowadays only one agriculture of Gheorghe Arpentin, Pelican Negru brand founder, is using the system of biodynamical winemaking.
The niche of organic wines is occupied just a little in the world market place, moreover, it could be said about biodynamic (maximal natural) wines. No doubts, Moldova has a chance to find its’ own place in this domain.
Rudolf Steiner- an Austrian by origin is considered to be the founder of biodynamic theory in agriculture. He insisted on rethinking of traditional and forgotten country methods of cultivation different kinds of crops taking into consideration the influence of the Planets, of the Sun and of the Moon. Biodynamic does not use chemical fertilizers. It uses only compost, herbal extracts and other natural drugs in homeopathy doses. Therefore, all the things that could change the essence of wine are excluded. They say that all life forms take an important part of creation unique micro zone of wine.
The first experience in biodynamic in Moldova
Dreaming about winemaking as about an art, Gheorghe Arpentin became interested in biodynamic in 1990th. He tried to join history and traditions of Moldavian winemaking. He read Steiner book nine times! All ideas he absorbed from that book influenced him a lot.
Creating his first vineyard in Olanesti, in 2001 Gheorghe Arpentin took 6, 8 hectares. He decided strongly to learn how to understand the nature and how to work harmonically with it. Gheorghe Arpentin has got his experience from France, Chili, Australia. He visited biodynamic degustation of wine- icons and he was assured that biodynamic allows to receive the harvest of high quality.
By the first idea, red wine sorts were planning to grow up in Olanesti, while for white wine sorts they bought a special ground near Rashkovo village. Unfortunately, due to financial difficulties, the Arpentin’s team decided to stop working with the North vineyard. Gheorghe Arpentin has good consultants such as Nicolas Joly (the owner of French vineyards) and the owners of Alsace vineyards Christophe Ehrhart and Michelle Fritsh. Nowadays they are good friends. Gheorghe Arpentin is making a part of International Agriculture Biodynamic Union in France.
The secrets of cultivation
Biodynamic does not assume expansive wines for huge business. It is about the strong desire of discovering the secrets of biodynamical cultivation of vineyards. All it is for getting the raw materials of expected quality and for transforming winemaking into art. It is important to mention that vineyards from Olanesti (two plantations about 6, 8 he and 18 he) were not processed by the pesticide during 15 years. They are processed only by methods accepted by biodynamic rules. Blue Vitriol, adopted for agricultural omologation, and sulfur are used for plants protection. Blue Vitriol is used 2,8 kg/ he per year, while in traditional agriculture this quantity represents each process of vineyards. In average, they make 6 spraying per season (maximum 12 processes).
Turning back, Gheorghe Arpentin said that if he could start form the very beginning, then he would put the plantations differently, with another planting material, bought in France. It is necessary that the plan has very healthy genetic basis for the biodynamic usage of it. Due to the lack of good generic basis, they lost three harvests on the young plantations. It was mildew. Biodynamic has very simple principles. If traditionally the plant disease is treating , then in biodynamic there is important to observe what problems does the vineyard have because the disease appears when there is imbalance.
It is important to mention that the plants protection in biodynamic is based on the strict programme, described day by day. As a rule, if everything is going to be all right, the process repeats each 10 days, beginning with the and of May, when first leaves appear. It is essential to observe climatic conditions, because bushes have to be processed before the bad weather. It gives a chance to catch the disease. Gheorghe Arpentin uses the lunar calendar for that. It is created by Marry and Matias Tun.
For keeping the balance in the eco-system biodynamic requires that 1 m2 will contain 13 plants without dominants. Clover, lucerne, ryegrass and rye are sowed for that. By the way, the rye is sowed and rumpled by roller in Alsace. Moldavian grounds are too dry for rye. Nowadays, the herbs grow up by its own.
The soil is enriched by compost once in three years. No one non-organic fertilizer is used. There was a year when soil was filled in with a straw and poultry excreta. It was done for resolving a problem with phosphorus deficit. All what vineyard took from the ground, winemakers try to give back.
Two biggest problems
During all these years Gheorghe Arpentin and his team met two biggest problems. First is plants protection. Generally for biodynamic agriculture it is important to find a place where the ground would be more or less isolated from the factors that can badly influence the results of hard-work. Once upon a time there was a caterpillar attack! All the neighbors used pesticides against wreckers and it is easy to guess that all caterpillar came to the ecologically – pure place. It was our place. The problem was resolved by the traps of pheromones.
Moreover, it is not only wreckers who create problems of plant protection. There are also climatic conditions that have to be discussed. During rainy periods, vineyards are suffered from mildew. Besides blue vitriol and sulfur we use infusions of the plant’s basis. The choice was stopped on the willow extracts, common horsetail and pines. Being occupied by biodynamic it is important to be ready for loosing one or two harvests because of the problem with plant protection.
The second problem is weeds. Nowadays it is difficult to say how to cope with them. At first glance, especially for others eye it may look like that vineyards of Pelican Negru grew too much. But at the same time, it is important to give a chance to every plant to grow up, especially because it creates harmony and natural balance. Moreover, if there is a weed it means that there is a concrete problem. It is important to find it out. One of the reasons could the stamping of a soil during the Soviet Union period. It provokes growing weeds.
Trying to understand all the consequences, naturally there is a desire to put everything on its place. They decided to change row – spacing. It was one of the most useful solutions for creating balance between weed’s growth and vineyards.
Biodynamic wines
“Les terres noires” has been making their wines in collaboration with different factures because there is no their own winery. That is why they have no chances to control fully the process of wine-making. Several years ago the ground of 1,5 he was bought on the ex-farm. There is a plan to begin project of winery, close to the vineyards. The places are very beautiful there.
The project contains a roof in the form of a dome for the energy concentration. It is very important to enrich biodynamic wines with energy. In comparison with modern makes, full of tanks of rust-resistant steel, they are planning to use concrete amphora for wine fermentation and keeping. Concrete works as thermos without big differences in temperature. It is extremely necessary for red wines. It gives a possibility to organize and to take high extract of fermentation.
Due to biodynamic methods of growing vineyards, it was established not to make high-quality wines. Moreover, there is no advantage towards oak barrel. Wine aging is minimally made in the barrels.
Only 4 % of wines are aged in the barrels. This kind of fashion is come from Bordeaux and California and it is connected a little with the Parker’s taste. However, German consumers, for example, are not interested in wines with strong taste of the oak. In our country there are several wine-makers who were addicted by this type of winemaking, but unfortunately, it is mostly very vulgar and non-integrated wines. Gheorghe Arpentin has different approach to it. His wine is not keeping in the barrels.
Some companies sell wines that were not ages in the barrels more expansive than aged. Wines, colored by chips were mainstreams on the USA and GB markets. Nowadays, the main stream is presented by wines with fresh and fruit aroma. They are growing very good clusters. Gheorghe Arpentin monitors the maximum natural wine’s conditions. The quantity of sulphurous anhydride is less in biodynamic wines than in the simple ones.
Due to the harmony between human and nature, the company plans to build clearing samples. Equipment will be brought from France. Moreover, the solar batteries will be installed. The power of the factory assumes making more than 200 tones of vineyards per season.
By the way, Gheorghe Arpentin started to learn energy of wine. He achieved his probation period in France, using methods of energy identification. Liquid after crystallization gives different forms and types of crystals. Special programs give a chance to make forms and to identify their regularity. This is how the energy of a product is evaluated.
It is difficult to propose innovations in winemaking because there are vineyards that have to work at about 40 years. Those, who planted an interesting sort – hit the mark, but if not, there is only one solution – to root it out. The innovation contains in the individuality of a choice and of its perfection.
Pelican Negru Brand
Pelican Negru Brand produces only two types of wine, because there is only two places for vineyards of 6, 8 he and 16, 5 he. Probably, year by year the parity of wine sorts will change. There are no wishes of producing mono – sorts’ wines, because Purcari Zone is famous by its blend wines. Moreover, one sort is hardly conducted to the high level because of the drought or rains. When there are two sorts its convenient to fill one sort by advantages of another.
Last year, 2016, there was wine pouring from 2013th harvest. It is sold as Pelican Negru Brand. The idea of such name for brand was takes from Syldavie – imagery Balkan kingdom, which name is formed from TranSYLvanya and MolDAVIE. “Scepter of the King Ottokara” is developed there (1938) – one of the albums from comic book “The Andentures of Tin-tin” by Belgian artist Hergé .
Syldavie takes part of 5 albums about Tin – Tin. These comic books have huge millions circulations all around the world. When people from the West hear “Moldavie” they often remember about “Syldavie” or they say: “Moldavie du Tintin”. Syldavie had its own coat of arms and flag. There was drawn Black Pelican.
Pelican, not black but white are present in Moldova in the reserve “Lower Prut” on the relict lake Beleu. Wine is as rare and unique as their brand.
This wine could be found and bought only in 5 collections of wines. It was also send for export in such countries as Romania, China, three Baltic Republics, France, Germany, Belgium and Ukraine.
