{"id":31410,"date":"2026-10-22T22:03:16","date_gmt":"2026-10-22T22:03:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/wine-and-spirits.md\/?p=31410"},"modified":"2026-10-22T22:31:58","modified_gmt":"2026-10-22T22:31:58","slug":"doq-priorat-from-abandoned-vineyards-to-iconic-wines","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/wine-and-spirits.md\/en\/doq-priorat-from-abandoned-vineyards-to-iconic-wines\/","title":{"rendered":"DOQ Priorat: From Abandoned Vineyards to Iconic Wines"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Priorat, located in Spain\u2019s Catalonia region, in the province of Tarragona, is, in my opinion, the most interesting wine-growing region in the world. The history of viticulture in Catalonia, of which Priorat is a part, spans more than 2,500 years, while the revival of winemaking in Priorat began relatively recently, in the 1980s. The region\u2019s first great wines appeared soon afterwards, only about three decades ago.<\/em><\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

My love for Priorat began with a documentary film about the region. I had not yet tasted its wines, but seeing this terroir through the eyes of the cinematographer and, above all, through those of the people who had given this rugged region a new lease on life, helped me understand what kind of wines were being made there. That was how I came to dream of seeing Priorat with my own eyes. The dream came true in October 2026.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A Stairway to Heaven<\/strong><\/h5>\n\n\n\n

According to legend, Alfonso II the Chaste (Alfonso II el Casto), Count of Barcelona and King of Aragon, wanted to populate as quickly as possible the lands reconquered from the Muslims, known as \u201cNew Catalonia.\u201d He decided to hand this region over to the Carthusian Order and sent two knights to explore it and find a site for a Carthusian monastery whose monks would come from Provence.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When the travellers arrived at the foot of the Serra de Montsant mountain range, they were amazed by the beauty of the landscape before them. A shepherd they met from the village of La Morera de Montsant told them about a supernatural event said to have taken place long ago in the middle of the valley. Shepherds had supposedly seen a ladder stretching up from the top of the tallest pine tree, with angels climbing it to heaven. The knights took this as a sign from above.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In 1194, an altar dedicated to Saint Mary was built where the tree with the \u201cladder\u201d had stood. This story gave its name to the monastery of Santa Maria de Scala Dei, commonly shortened to Scala Dei, which translates from Latin as \u201cStairway to God.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Carthusians of Scala Dei wore white woollen robes with hoods covering their shaved heads. They planted vineyards and made wine at the monastery, devoting their lives to work and spirituality.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Cartoixa (Carthusian Monastery) of Scala Dei is considered the birthplace of winemaking in Priorat, since the Carthusian monks brought knowledge from Provence that helped develop local viticulture. The wine region of Priorat takes its name from the monastery. A \u201cpriorat\u201d is a monastery subordinate to an abbey, and Scala Dei was often referred to by this term in everyday speech. The Carthusians\u2019 lands formed the historical region of Priorat, which today coincides with the DOQ Priorat wine region.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After the passage of the Mendiz\u00e1bal Law, which transferred Church property into secular ownership, Scala Dei lost all its estates in 1836, as did most monasteries in Spain. The monks were expelled, and the monastery began to decline and fall into ruin. Since 1993, the monastery, designated a Site of Cultural Interest of national importance, has been open to visitors.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Behind it, geological strata can be seen all the way to the mountain summit. Layer upon layer, they display a varied palette of grey, ochre, yellow, brown and red, creating a mystical stairway that leads to the sky.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A Unique Terroir<\/strong><\/h5>\n\n\n\n

The geological and climatic features of the DOQ Priorat area create a unique ecosystem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Priorat has a particularly striking landscape, shaped like a vast mountain amphitheatre. One side is formed by the Serra de Montsant massif, whose highest point is Roca Corbatera, at 1,163 metres. The settlements within the DOQ Priorat boundaries lie right at the foot of the Serra de Montsant mountains.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The mountain ranges protect the vineyards from sea breezes. As a result, despite the region\u2019s proximity to the Mediterranean Sea, Priorat has a sharply continental climate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The area\u2019s rugged terrain means that many vineyards are cultivated on \u201ccosters,\u201d a Catalan word meaning \u201csteep slope.\u201d These slopes are so steep that terraces have been built in many places. Looking at them, one cannot help wondering how anyone could have planted vines there at all. The vineyards lie at elevations of between 100 and 700 metres above sea level.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A key element of the local terroir is llicorella, the slate rock characteristic of this region; it was also used as a basis for defining the appellation\u2019s boundaries. Its colour ranges from black to ochre. It consists of thin strips of stone arranged in layers. The rock is very fragile, however, and can easily be broken by hand, so the vineyard soil looks as though it is covered in construction rubble. These properties of the slate allow vine roots to find their way through the rock and grow deep in search of water and nutrients, while becoming stronger in the process.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"11804\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The soil contains little organic matter, so the vines accumulate many mineral compounds, which are later reflected in the wines. Vines remain the principal agricultural crop on these soils, although olive and almond trees are always found alongside the vineyards.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Summer here is long, hot and dry, with temperatures often rising above 40\u00b0C and sometimes reaching 50\u00b0C. Winters are cool, with temperatures falling to \u22124\u00b0C.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Average annual rainfall is 400\u2013600 mm, making this one of Spain\u2019s driest regions. Overall, the climate here is more extreme than that of most continental regions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After Phylloxera<\/strong><\/h5>\n\n\n\n

Phylloxera reached Priorat in 1893. Within a few years, the epidemic had destroyed almost all the vineyards. The planted area fell from approximately 9,000 hectares to just over 800 hectares. Some vines not only survived, but have remained alive to this day. What is more, they still bear fruit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As the vineyards were destroyed, many residents left their villages and went to work in Barcelona\u2019s textile mills. The recovery of Priorat\u2019s vineyards after the phylloxera outbreak took almost a century.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In the early 1900s, the farmers who remained in the region slowly began replanting their vineyards. They focused on the traditional local varieties Garnatxa (Grenache) and Carinyena (Carignan), which adapted best to the rocky slate slopes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Some farmers were so poor that they could not afford new vine plants or equipment. Between 1917 and 1930, they joined agricultural cooperatives to survive. These cooperatives produced huge volumes of inexpensive, simple, high-alcohol wine and sold it in bulk.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The region remained in decline for a long time, and the total area under vines in Priorat stayed minimal. In 1930, for example, it amounted to less than 9,000 hectares.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The turning point came with the introduction of official regulation. In 1954, the DO Priorat designation of origin was formally established. This provided the legal foundation for the region\u2019s future leap in wine quality.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Magnificent Five<\/strong><\/h5>\n\n\n\n

Priorat\u2019s revival began in the 1980s. By then, its unique steep terraces had been abandoned, and the vineyard area had shrunk to 600 hectares.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It all began with winemaker Ren\u00e9 Barbier, who recognised Priorat\u2019s potential and fell in love with its terroir and old vines. (A future article will be devoted to Ren\u00e9 Barbier and his work.) In 1979, he bought his first plot of land in Priorat, in the village of Gratallops. However, he understood that he could not revive the region alone, so he brought together a group of like-minded people, who planted vineyards in the same village.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The five \u201ccrazy people\u201d, also known as the Gratallops Pioneers, were:<\/p>\n\n\n\n